The Anatomy Of The Perfect Mascara

March 25, 2008

As a professional make-up artist I am very particular about keeping a very tidy, sanitary kit. As a matter of fact I am obsessed with it, just ask my partner Kim!

Mascara is one thing I can’t sanitize in my kit and I’ve come to the conclusion that I hate disposable mascara wands. So when applying make-up to hundreds of women over the course of a year I always try to remember to tell my brides and bridesmaid to bring their own mascara. Because of that, the number one question I get from these women is “what is your favorite mascara?” I wish the answer would be as simple as naming one name brand… well it’s not.

Mascara brushes are actually more important than the formulation itself. Top cosmetics company patent their brush not their formulas.
The perfect mascara really depend on your personal needs. What kind of lashes do you have? Are thin and long? Or are they short and thick? Do you want to add volume or length? Or do you want a little of everything? These are all important things to take into consideration before purchasing that perfect mascara.
When shopping for mascara keep in mind the look you want, then choose the appropriate brush to achieve the desired result. Your brush will determine how your mascara is going to be applied.

Mascara brush 101:

YOU WANT FULL LASHES AND LENGTH: A brush that is fat and thick will do the job best. For fat lashes get a fat brush. Easy!
The fatter the brush the thicker the application. To get those lashes nice and full place the wand at the root of the lashes then do a zig zag motion before extending to the end of the lashes. This trick will add volume and thickness without clumps. Diorshow mascara is a great example, and for a less expensive version L’oreal Voluminous.

YOUR LASHES ARE FULL BUT NEED LENGTH AND DEFINITION: A skinnier brush that can reach out to each and every lash will do the trick. The skinnier shaped brushes tend to add more length without clumping. Perfect example: Lancome definicil and Maybeline Great Lash.

The rule of thumb is: larger mascara wands with closer bristles allow for a thicker application; skinnier wands with bristles more spaced apart will deliver a lighter, sheerer, more natural looking application.

To use waterproof or to not use waterproof?

I’m a big fan of waterproof mascara. It is ideal when visiting hot, humid climates and a must when getting married. It also helps when presented with hooded lids or lids where smearing is an issue.
Waterproof mascara also help lashes retain a curl due to their higher wax content.